Has my new HX1200 PSU fried my machine?

donny5150

Active member
Hi all,

I had a look in the device manager to see if there were any driver issues that could be causing my BSOD and the CPU cooler (Corsair H100i v2) doesn't have a driver installed. Should there be?!

Anyone know if this is normal or not? I ran a CPU test from intel and it passed fine.
 

donny5150

Active member
oops, meant to upload a pic...
 

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ubuysa

The BSOD Doctor
I'm not aware that a liquid cooler needs Windows drivers, but if there are any they'll be on the Corsair website. I'd start by looking there.

Have you checked your CPU temps?
 

donny5150

Active member
There's something called Corsair link that seems to be a suite for monitoring, etc, but no actual drivers. Since I don't think I had that before, I probably don't need it now. Unless it might help?

A friend of mine gave me a little app called Core Temp and the CPU seemed to be pretty normal really.
 

Rakk

The Awesome
Moderator
Mine used to show like that in my device manager for my H100i and it still worked perfectly fine (note: this was in my previous machine, but I definitely remember seeing that yellow exclamation mark).
 

donny5150

Active member
I downloaded the Corsair link app which got rid of the 'missing driver' warning in Device manager, but still getting the WHEA BSOD.

I took it into a local PC shop today, I'll report back what happens...

Thanks for the help and suggestions everybody.
 

ubuysa

The BSOD Doctor
I downloaded the Corsair link app which got rid of the 'missing driver' warning in Device manager, but still getting the WHEA BSOD.
I still think there's a CPU issue there.

I took it into a local PC shop today, I'll report back what happens...
If you have any warranty time left on your PC you want to get it back from the PC shop ASAP. That WILL invalidate your PCS warranty.
 

Mask3d

Silver Level Poster
Windows 10 by any chance?
Find out what your stock processor core speed is and then in BIOS turn off any turbo settings and test it.
If that doesn't work, you'll need to go test some settings, in bios set it to 'manual' so that you can see all of the settings and turn down the multiplyer (it might be something like 23.5, change it to 23, test, see if it freezes, if so then 22.5 etc)
Had WHEA errors with my CPU and after trying everything, underclocking sorted it.
 

BlessedSquirrel

We love you Ukraine
Windows 10 by any chance?
Find out what your stock processor core speed is and then in BIOS turn off any turbo settings and test it.
If that doesn't work, you'll need to go test some settings, in bios set it to 'manual' so that you can see all of the settings and turn down the multiplyer (it might be something like 23.5, change it to 23, test, see if it freezes, if so then 22.5 etc)
Had WHEA errors with my CPU and after trying everything, underclocking sorted it.
If you’re having to underclock a CPU or GPU to stop it freezing or crashing, it’s because that part is damaged and needs replacing.
 

Mask3d

Silver Level Poster
If you’re having to underclock a CPU or GPU to stop it freezing or crashing, it’s because that part is damaged and needs replacing.

I don't have the same CPU as the OP I have an old Bulldozer FX9590 currently, it was just an idea as this worked for me.
The parts not damaged, the system worked perfectly with full overclock under Windows 7 and other OS's but Windows 10 does not like FX9590 architecture, I know that sounds wrong but seriously google it and its ridiculously common.
 

BlessedSquirrel

We love you Ukraine
I don't have the same CPU as the OP I have an old Bulldozer FX9590 currently, it was just an idea as this worked for me.
The parts not damaged, the system worked perfectly with full overclock under Windows 7 and other OS's but Windows 10 does not like FX9590 architecture, I know that sounds wrong but seriously google it and its ridiculously common.
Was likely thermals, they’re notoriously hard to cool under stock boosts.
 

donny5150

Active member
Hi everyone, so a little update on this:

I was away on holiday last week and left the PC in a local shop (the PCS parts warranty ran out and I only had a few days left on the labour warranty, so I'm cool with that), and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and couldn't replicate the BSOD. However, as soon as I took it home it crashed, same issue.

I re-cabled the whole PC and reformatted the OS drive. No dice. :-(

After a whole ton of swearing and googling I came across this:


This basically says I need to change the CPU voltage in the BIOS to 1.2V and it seems to have worked so far. I think maybe when I installed the new PSU I reset the BIOS thinking that would be the safest/most reliable settings. I've not tried to reapply the overclock PCS put on it when I bought it. Maybe that included the same CPU voltage settings..?

Ubuysa - So far it seems that you're right in thinking the CPU wasn't happy!

However, it seems that every time I turn it off now, it won't boot when I go back to use it. In order to boot it again, I need to jump the CMOS switch on the motherboard (then redo the CPU voltage thing) - any ideas why I'd need to do that?

Thanks all.
 

ubuysa

The BSOD Doctor
Hi everyone, so a little update on this:

I was away on holiday last week and left the PC in a local shop (the PCS parts warranty ran out and I only had a few days left on the labour warranty, so I'm cool with that), and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and couldn't replicate the BSOD. However, as soon as I took it home it crashed, same issue.

I re-cabled the whole PC and reformatted the OS drive. No dice. :-(

After a whole ton of swearing and googling I came across this:


This basically says I need to change the CPU voltage in the BIOS to 1.2V and it seems to have worked so far. I think maybe when I installed the new PSU I reset the BIOS thinking that would be the safest/most reliable settings. I've not tried to reapply the overclock PCS put on it when I bought it. Maybe that included the same CPU voltage settings..?

Ubuysa - So far it seems that you're right in thinking the CPU wasn't happy!

However, it seems that every time I turn it off now, it won't boot when I go back to use it. In order to boot it again, I need to jump the CMOS switch on the motherboard (then redo the CPU voltage thing) - any ideas why I'd need to do that?

Thanks all.
Hmm. The undervolt makes sense from what the dumps were saying I guess, but the boot failure suggests that all is not yet well.

I find it very interesting that the PC shop could not replicate the BSOD. Did you give them good details on how to reproduce it? And do you know for sure that they really tried to reproduce it? Assuming that they knew how to reproduce it and that they actually tried, it suggests that there could be mains power issues at your home perhaps?

Do you use a surge protector for your PC (you really should)? If so try it without the surge protector, plug the PC directly into the wall socket with nothing else in the same socket. See whether you can make it BSOD then?

Even if you don't use a surge protector, if you have the PC plugged into an extension strip or socket along with other devices then also try plugging the PC straight into a wall socket on its own.

I don't believe in coincidences when troubleshooting so it's no coincidence that it works fine at the shop but fails almost immediately at your home.....
 

donny5150

Active member
If I'm honest I wasn't sure why it was BSOD, so I couldn't tell them how/when it happened. I thought it was quite random. They ran all the usual hardware tests (as did I) and they all came back fine.

I use Maxon's Cinema 4D and Adobe software everyday on that machine, so maybe I was running one or both of them (maybe even in the background) and I wasn't aware they were causing the issue. There seems to be some conversation around the web about adobe and/or Maxon's products asking for more Voltage from the CPU than usual. Hence the Bios solution.

As for surge protection, I do use one although Im not too sure how great it is. I live in a new build house with good electrics so I'm quite confident all is well there. I've tried plugging it into the wall directly, and using two different kettle leads, no difference really.

There's a tiny part of me that wants to just buy a new motherboard and CPU and just get on with my life, but Im not made of money.
 

ubuysa

The BSOD Doctor
If I'm honest I wasn't sure why it was BSOD, so I couldn't tell them how/when it happened. I thought it was quite random. They ran all the usual hardware tests (as did I) and they all came back fine.

I use Maxon's Cinema 4D and Adobe software everyday on that machine, so maybe I was running one or both of them (maybe even in the background) and I wasn't aware they were causing the issue. There seems to be some conversation around the web about adobe and/or Maxon's products asking for more Voltage from the CPU than usual. Hence the Bios solution.

As for surge protection, I do use one although Im not too sure how great it is. I live in a new build house with good electrics so I'm quite confident all is well there. I've tried plugging it into the wall directly, and using two different kettle leads, no difference really.

There's a tiny part of me that wants to just buy a new motherboard and CPU and just get on with my life, but Im not made of money.
I understand, few of us are made of money. Bill Gates is obviously, and The Queen, Lewis Hamilton too probably, but us mere mortals are not. :)

From what you say here I would suggest that eliminating Maxon's Cinema 4D and the Adobe software (for a time) would show whether they might be the cause. To do that I would reset the BIOS settings to their defaults and perform a fully clean install of Windows, deleting existing UEFI partitions, and running Windows Update until no more updates are found (to install all necessary drivers).

Don't install any other software (except for specific stress testing tools) or plug in any external hardware (except for monitor, mouse and keyboard) and then thrash the PC as hard as you can and as much as you can in that state to try and make it fail. If it does BSOD in that pristine state it's most likely a hardware issue of some kind (though do upload the dumps).
 
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